Gillian M Reid Craft and Randomness: June 2011

Start by making the ears – two the same.

Make 3 - 4 ch and s/s join (ie s/s in 3^rd (or 4^th) ch from hook), or do a magic loop. Leave tail after a st or two, so that it's secure, but you'll need that loose tail later on.

Row 1 - 1 Ch, then 5 DC in loop = 6 DC. Turn, do 1 ch (as 1^st DC)

Row 2 – Make 3 increases

Row 3 – work straight

Row 4 – make 3 increases

Row 5 – work straight

Fasten off – leave tail for now, as I said.

Main Bag

Work a length of chain a bit shy of the desired finished width.

Work s/s into the spine of the ch.

Not this side…

… but this one…

Working in slip stitch instead of DC for this first row makes a nice, close, base for your bag. This also works for sock toes. Oh, and keep the tail of the yarn out once it’s secured as this helps you keep track of your rounds.

After the final s/s, work 1 ch, then work 2 DC into the next sp. You are turning the corner.

Work DC until the last st, then 2 DC in that final one. 1 DC (round the next corner), then 2 DC.

Note, you are not doing a s/s join and 1 ch to get to the next row, you are now working in a spiral.

Next round – at the ends work an increase in the two sts either side of the centre one…

Now, stop and squish the long oval together. Look at the shape.

Does that come out enough? Carry on, making two increases at each end until you’re happy with the shape, then work straight.

Once the bag has reached the height you require, you can start the strap and then the flap, including those dinky ears.

For the strap, you can simply do a 3-dc strip. All you do is DC to just past the side (when the work is held flat), then turn, 1 ch (as first DC), work two DC, turn, etc. You could also work a long row of chain stitch for the strap, then either DC or s/s back along once you’ve attached it to the other side of the bag. This latter makes a neat square cord, and that’s what I chose to do this time, as I was running out of yarn...

Once your strap is finished, it’s time to start the flap. Again, just stop and turn where you want it to be.

After a couple of rows, place the ears (you’ll need to count sts) behind your work, and as you DC across just work into both the ear and the flap.

Slightly clearer piccy...

To get a good curve on the ears, don’t work into the ends at this stage, but leave them ‘unattached’ and sew them down later, a couple of rows higher up.

Here goes...

Now, after a few more rows (you be the judge) decrease at the end of each row, work a row straight, then do another decrease row.

Make your buttonhole as follows: Using scrap yarn, thread your button onto the main part of the bag.

NOTE – this is NOT a proper fix-on just yet, it’s just so you can judge whether the buttonhole is the right size.

OK… now work out where the middle of your row is, and, counting outwards, work out where you plan to put your buttonhole. Once you’ve reached that spot in the row, work X chain and miss X sts before carrying on to end of the row,

Turn.

You can also make this a decrease row, if you like. Work across the row, then when you come to the chain, work INTO it (not underneath, a la granny) and carry on across.

Now test your buttonhole. If the fit feels right – yay – you can fasten off – or do one more row if you like. If it doesn’t feel right, just rip back and try again…

All you need to do now is attach the button (nose) properly with needle and thread, add the eyes, and attach the ends of the ears. You can, if you’re careful, do these last two (the eyes and the ears) with one length of thread – just take care not to pucker the work, and to hide the thread well as you go.